Dorin Azérad

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Wigs 101: Different Types of Hair Fibers

This week, I'm answering the question we've all been waiting to ask when it comes to wigs... human hair or synthetic hair? 

It's actually a little more complicated than one or the other - each has its pros and cons. Some people are better suited for human hair and others for synthetic hair. So, which one is best for you?

This blog is all about the good, the bad, and the ugly (yes, there's ugly) for human and synthetic hair. I'm breaking down each hair type you'll commonly see in-stores and online, and sharing my opinion on why some are good and others aren't worth your money.

If you haven't already done so, check out last week's blog about the different construction of wigs. We're continuing the series on wigs next week, so come back next Wednesday for more of the goods.


Virgin Hair

  • 100% human hair.

  • Hair has not been chemically processed before collection (ex. colored, highlighted, permed).

  • All the cuticles (outermost layer of hair shaft) are intact and running in the same direction from root to tip, which means there will be almost no tangling.

  • Can be chemically processed (ex. colored, highlighted, permed).

  • Versatility in styling options (i.e. you can use hot styling tools on the wig).

  • Style will not hold without being restyled (just like human hair).

  • Reacts to humidity like human hair.

  • Most expensive hair type for a wig.

  • Lasts up to a year with proper care.

  • Bottom Line: This is the best hair on the market. Period. This hair will last the longest and look the most realistic, but you'll need to care and style it just like your own hair. It's also going to be your most expensive option. If you don't want the hassle of styling a wig or don't have any experience with caring for wigs and extensions, I wouldn't recommend spending your money on a virgin hair wig.

    • As an aside, a lot of online vendors might claim to be selling virgin or remy hair wigs. Unless the wig costs upwards of $400, it's probably not completely virgin or remy hair.

Remy Hair

  • 100% human hair.

  • Hair has been chemically processed before collection (ex. colored, highlighted, permed).

  • All the cuticles are intact and running in the same direction from root to tip, which means there will be almost no tangling.

  • Can be chemically processed (ex. colored, highlighted, permed).

  • Versatility in styling options (i.e. you can use hot styling tools on the wig).

  • Style will not hold without being restyled (just like human hair).

  • Reacts to humidity like human hair.

  • More expensive than synthetic wigs.

  • Lasts up to a year with proper care.

  • Bottom Line: This is my first choice when it comes to buying hair. I'm not looking for a wig that has never been chemically processed, because I'll be processing it anyway (coloring, highlighting). I like to have the option of styling my wig with a straightener or curling iron as if it were my own hair. I also know the hair will last me a long time, even after chemical processes and hot styling.

Non-Remy Hair

  • 100% human hair.

  • Hair is collected from brushes and the ground at salons.

  • Hair has been chemically processed before collection (ex. colored, highlighted, permed).

  • Cuticles are not intact or running in the same direction, so there will be a significant amount of tangling (you can usually tell when you run your fingers through the hair).

  • Can be chemically processed (ex. colored, highlighted, permed).

  • Versatility in styling options (i.e. you can use hot styling tools on the wig).

  • Style will not hold without being restyled (just like human hair).

  • Reacts to humidity like human hair.

  • More expensive than synthetic wigs.

  • Lasts up to a year with proper care.

  • Bottom Line: If you're going to buy a human hair wig, do not waste your money on a non-remy wig. The fact that the cuticles do not run in the same direction means that the hair will tangle and matte more, which can lead to quick shedding from detangling. You can tell if the hair is remy or non-remy by running your fingers through it. You'll feel some resistance with non-remy hair.

Synthetic Hair

  • Least expensive wig option.

  • Very little care and maintenance required.

  • Styling will hold longer than a human hair wig.

  • Very little versatility in styling (i.e. cannot be styled with hot styling tools).

  • Wigs tend to look shinier than normal human hair. 

  • Wig will only last a couple months

  • Cannot be chemically processed (ex. colored, highlighted).

  • Bottom Line: If you're looking to buy your first wig on the cheap and have little to no experience with styling, this is your best option. The way the wig looks when you purchase it is how it'll look everyday you put it on. Because they don't last for a long time, you will have to buy a new wig more often than if you were to buy a non-synthetic wig. 

Heat-Friendly Synthetic Hair

  • Cost effective option - More expensive than a synthetic wig, but less expensive than a human hair wig.  

  • Versatility in styling options (i.e. you can use hot styling tools on the wig at controlled temperatures).

  • Styling with hold for longer than a human hair wig.

  • Less shiny than non-heat-friendly synthetic wigs.

  • Wig will only last a couple months.

  • Cannot be chemically processed (ex. colored, highlighted).

  • Bottom Line: If you're looking to purchase a synthetic wig, I would recommend a heat-friendly synthetic wig over a normal synthetic wig. The ability to curl and straighten the wig is a huge plus. These wigs also don't appear as "fake" as some synthetic wigs tend to.

Human Hair Synthetic Blends

  • Wigs combine natural human hair fibers and heat friendly synthetic hair. 

  • Less expensive than buying a full human hair wig. 

  • Versatility in styling options (i.e. you can use hot styling tools on the wig at controlled temperatures).

  • You'll find a lot of variability in the amount of "blend" in these wigs - some will be majority human hair, while others will be majority synthetic hair.

  • Bottom Line: I'm not a huge fan of human hair synthetic blends because of the variability in "blend." You don't really know what you're getting when you're buying. More likely than not, you're getting very little human hair and a lot of synthetic hair at a higher price than a purely synthetic wig.


When You're Ready to Buy

When it comes to buying a wig, selecting the quality of hair is the hardest part. This is where you really start figuring out how much the wig is going to cost and how care, maintenance, and styling will factor into your day-to-day life. 

I've tried a lot of different types of hair companies over the years. My biggest piece of advice: once you've found a company whose hair you like, stick with them. A lot of vendors online claim to be selling human hair and aren't. It takes a bit of shopping around to figure out what the best hair for you is. Ask around and read reviews to learn from other people's ups and downs with hair companies. 

If you have any questions of your own when picking out a wig or extensions, feel free to comment below or leave me a message. I asked a lot of questions when I first began buying my own hair, and love helping others out on their journey too!